Croquetas de Jamón Serrano, Serrano Ham Croquettes, the Last of the Leg of Ham
It is a fact that many families in Spain make an effort at Christmas time to buy a leg of ham, and not just any ham, but the best ham they can afford. That might seem like a strange concept for my American audience, but most Spaniards would understand it. In Spain you can buy jamón serrano, cured serrano ham, of various qualities, all the way up to the crown jewel, what is considered a luxury product, a leg of Iberian ham.
The pigs this kind of ham comes from have been fed acorns exclusively, in large pastures in farms called dehesas, and free range. The dehesas are lightly forested pastures doted with stone oaks and cork trees, spread mainly throughout the regions of Extremadura and western Andalucía, and south of Castilla and La Mancha. The ham that comes from the Iberian pig, or black pig, also known as pata negra, black trotter, is probably Spain’s most famous delicacy.
Jamón serrano, on the other hand, comes from pigs that are grain fed, and grow mostly in Aragón and in Granada. Just like with the Iberian ham, after the pig is slaughtered, the serrano ham will be covered in coarse salt for two weeks, then rinsed off and hung to dry for a minimum of eight months and up to twenty, depending on the different grades of quality.
When on one of my trips to our local Costco a few days before Christmas I saw, among the generous Christmas offering, a few large, perfectly aligned boxes that read serrano ham from Spain, I almost fainted. I didn’t care what kind of quality it was. I read the tag, they were in fact legs of serrano ham from Spain, and I snatched one. In all the years I’ve lived in the United States, I’m sure I could have bought a leg of serrano ham online. But seeing it at a local store is something that had never happened before.
Needless to say, the leg of serrano ham has been enjoyed in all forms and dishes since it entered our kitchen. But first, I had to learn how to slice it, which I did, thanks to some YouTube videos and also thanks to my brother-in-law Jorge, who sent some directions. Memory also kicked in, as I remembered the many Christmases spent at home in Spain, where a leg of ham was always on the counter.
We have enjoyed it as a tapa, all on its own, slicing a few slices as we walk by it. We’ve enjoyed it in sandwiches, in stews, in pasta, and pizzas, and in a variety of tapas. Various packages of sliced serrano ham have been sent to college. And, as we reach the end of the leg, I’m looking forward to the soups, stews, and cocido (the famous Madrilian dish) that I will make with its bone.
Today I’m sharing one of my family’s favorite dishes, one that can be enjoyed as much as an entrée as a tapa, as it is the perfect finger food, croquetas de jamón, serrano ham croquettes. Croquetas are one of Spaniards beloved dishes or tapas. Think of a very thick bechamel to which you add any kind of meat, even fish or vegetables —ham, chicken, turkey, crab, shrimp, cod— diced or shredded very finely. Breaded and fried in olive oil to perfection, I dare you to stop at just one. You can’t.
Croquetas are entertaining to make, because, just like with meatballs, you will have to form them one by one. But it is so well worth it. Croquetas the jamón are a dish many Spaniards make after Christmas, as they finish up what’s left of their leg of serrano ham. And that is exactly what I’m doing.
SERRANO HAM CROQUETTES
Croquetas de Jamón Serrano
Ingredients:
1 small onion
2 1/2 cups flour
4 cups whole milk
8 Tbs butter
1 cup finely chopped serrano ham (if unavailable, substitute with prosciutto)
2 eggs
1/2 tsp salt
Pinch nutmeg
1 cup good quality breadcrumbs (I like to grind my own bread)
About 2 cups olive oil, for frying
Chop the onion finely. Dice the serrano ham slices into small pieces.
Melt the butter over medium heat and sauté the onion until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups of flour and mix. Cook for 7-8 minutes, stirring energetically, making sure the flour is cooked through and takes on a slight golden color. Add the milk to the flour mixture and stir continuously for about 2 minutes, until it forms a thick bechamel (make sure it’s not too soft or sticky, as the croquetas will be too hard to handle and might break when frying them).
Add the ham and season with the salt and nutmeg. Cook for another 2 minutes. Remove from the heat source and let cool (ideally you would form the croquetas and cook them the next day).
Form the croquetas: I like to use two tablespoons to do it, grabbing a small amount of mixture and rolling it between the two spoons. The size shouldn’t be too large nor too small, an ideal size is slightly larger than that of a wine wine bottle cork. Alternatively, you can rub your palms in a few drops of olive oil and form them by hand, rolling the dough between your palms.
Place the remaining 1 cup of flour in a shallow bowl. In another bowl, beat the eggs well. Place the breadcrumbs in a third shallow bowl. Place these three bowls side by side. Roll the croquetas in the flour, then the egg, then the breadcrumbs. Line them up on a cookie sheet.
In a small to medium skillet, heat the oil to 375ºF. Add the croquetas in small batches, making sure the oil covers them to at least two thirds. Fry, turning them, until they acquire a golden color. Remove them from the oil and place them in a previously prepared colander placed over a medium saucepan, then transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Let them rest there while the next batch fries. Transfer them from the paper lined plate to a serving plate. Repeat this process until all the croquetas are fried. Serve immediately.
